Toro
1704 Washington Street, Boston, MA, 02118. Phone: 617.536.4300 (no reservations for dinner).
Worth visiting in a 3-mile radius.
I must admit that I walked into Toro with the wrong expectations. My parents have both been to Spain and I have heard of tales of laid-back tapas bars in balmy seaside towns, where you could get some jamon serrano, bread, cheese, and good wine for only a few euros, and where the patronage was mostly made up of elderly locals gossiping and reading the paper, kind of like a tapas version of Bougatsa Iordanis. These were the expectations I had when I came to Toro.
The atmosphere of Toro is that of a popular bar, because it is partly that; booming music, a dark space crowded with professional-looking twenty-somethings. You can imagine that was a bit of a shock for me given what I was expecting.
Although Toro calls itself a tapas place, the menu is not entirely so, with items like whole fish and paella. There is a nice variety of dishes, both familiar, like ham and cheese and strange, like quail egg.
The meal started off with simple dishes. Our queso mahon (made in Mahon, capital of Menorca, an island in Spain) was strong, similar to Manchego cheese but with peppercorns. It was good with the complimentary bread and the jamon serrano, which was some of the best I’ve had. The meat had a nice smoky taste, and unlike other jamon serranos I’ve had, it was not overly salty.
Speaking of not too salty, anchovies are usually some of the saltiest food on earth, so salty that most people never eat them straight. The boquerones (anchovies) at Toro are exceptional because the lack of salt brings out the raw, delicious fishy flavor that people rarely taste. Instead of salt these anchovies are bathed in olive oil and vinegar, which enhances their flavor much better.
Unfortunately, our seafood experience at Toro went downhill from there. I had high hopes for the paella valenciana, because I’d never had paella before. However, this dish had some problems. The smoky flavor, which had worked so well in the ham, overwhelmed the paella. And the rice, the very base of the dish, was soggy and packed little taste. The meat of the mejillones (mussels) was piping hot and soft to the touch, but I didn’t get to taste it because the whole bowl was drenched in Basque cider, masking the taste of any mussel underneath. Our last seafood dish was pulpo a la plancha (octopus), which was overcooked to the point where it tasted more like really dry roast chicken than an octopus.
Our meal ended on a high note, though, with the asado de huesos (bone marrow). It looked amazing as it was served, a massive bone with toast on the side and sprinkled with radish. I loved the bone marrow, although I see how it could be an acquired taste. It is one of the most calorie-rich dishes I have ever had; it had all the flavor of juicy beef but double the fattiness and saltiness. The radish added a sour touch to the beef that gave it another dimension.
Service is alright. The waitstaff weren’t extremely attentive as the place was buzzing at the time we were there, but they were professional and polished. Prices on the menu don’t seem very expensive (tapas range from $6-$15, with the occasional outlier). However, since it’s a tapas restaurant and the portions are small, the bill adds up to a lot. Although this restaurant has some great, interesting dishes, it is definitely hit-or-miss, and I would stay away from the seafood, save for the anchovies. However, if you know what you’re coming for, unlike me, and order smartly, I think Toro can make a satisfying meal.