59 Calle Acacia, Esperanza, Vieques, Puerto Rico, 00765. Phone: 787.698.4464

Worth visiting in a 21 mile radius (about the length of Vieques).

The tiny island of Vieques off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico is known for two things: beautiful beaches and the military occupation that ended in 2003. Most of the restaurants in the town of Esperanza (one of Vieques’s two towns) cater to tourists who need something to eat after a long day at the beach.  Nevertheless, my family discovered a hidden gem when we stumbled upon Rancho Choli, a family kitchen serving authentic Puerto Rican cuisine.

Rancho Choli, unlike the majority of restaurants in Esperanza, is not on the Malécon, or boardwalk. It’s tucked away into a residential neighborhood full of brightly colored houses, stray cats, and noisy chickens. The building has several tables outside under a roof and a little counter at which you can order and peer into the kitchen. The menu is scrawled on a chalkboard leaning on the counter. It is simple, with different kinds of meat along with rice, beans, and a small salad.

First, the slow roasted whole pig, or léchon, a traditional Puerto Rican feast and a must try if you ever visit the island: the roast is crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and served in a very generous portion. If you want it, though, come early; hungry patrons gobble it up fast. Another great dish to try is the conch, sautéed with butter, onions, peppers, and a motherlode of garlic. The garlicky aroma is so strong, when you’re waiting for your food to come you can smell the garlic wafting up from the kitchen. The conch meat is very soft and, although somewhat flavorless by itself, is great because it tastes of butter and garlic.

Since Rancho Choli offers a seasonal menu, conch might not be available if you visit this restaurant. Léchon, however, is a Puerto Rican staple and remains on the menu year round. Rancho Choli is a great place to stop by if you want to get away from the Malécon in Esperanza.