California · Los Angeles

Plate 38

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2361 East Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena CA. Phone: 626.793.7100

Worth visiting in a 10 mile radius.

Across America’s suburbs, college towns, and downtown city districts, a certain type of restaurant is ubiquitous: the gastropub. These places serve the American standard of soups, salads, and sandwiches, but with a classy edge and significantly higher prices. Although I’ve been to quite a few gastropubs in my life, I’ve always found the idea off-putting; the food at these establishments tends to aspire to be fancy, but the caliber of chefs and ingredients doesn’t reach the level needed to make their variations worth the high prices.

Plate 38 is located in Pasadena, the city north of Los Angeles best known for hosting the Rose Bowl. The setting is nice but not anything special, with a comfortable wooden interior and a small porch complete with heat lamps for (semi) chilly California winter nights.

Plate 38 uses locally sourced ingredients to make all its dishes, which is not uncommon in high-end restaurants, but always appreciated. The menu is mostly typical of a gastropub, with interesting appetizers, salads, burgers, and a few entrees.

The interior is equipped with a full bar, so I took advantage of this to get a Shirley Temple, which was a bit watery but had two cherries instead of the usual one. The adults in my party who ordered alcohol all agreed that it was good.

For appetizers, we ordered a yellowtail crudo and a grilled octopus dish. The crudo was simply amazing. The fish was tender with little skin or gristle, and it was served with a soy-based sauce and big chunks of avocado, giving it a taste reminiscent of California rolls. I didn’t care much for the octopus at first, but as the meal went on, it grew on me. This was in large part due to the chorizo, which I did not expect to be served with octopus. The smoky flavors of both meats ended up clashing. However, the rest of this dish made up for the strange choice of chorizo. The octopus, while not super fresh like the octopus I’d had in Greece, still retained tenderness. The fruits and vegetables alongside the octopus were well-picked to bring out a sour flavor in the meat (lemon, radish, pickled carrots), and the presentation of the dish was pretty.

The fried chicken was the standout of the meal. If you want to order it, keep in mind that it is only served on Sunday and Monday nights. The chicken is served in a generous portion which includes a good amount of both white and dark meat. The white meat was a tad on the dry side, but this was hardly a problem because the chicken was served with an excellent rich gravy. The dark meat was adequately juicy and required no gravy. The skin held on to the chicken and didn’t fall apart, yet it remained crisp. The sides served with the chicken were a cheesy jalapeno cornbread (very fresh and warm, but could use a bit more spice), mashed potatoes (these were superb, I appreciated that they left in chunks of mashed potatoes instead of completely pureeing it like baby food), corn on the cob, and an assortment of vegetables. If you like fried chicken and you come to Plate 38, this should definitely be your entree.

The steak was perfectly cooked medium rare, with a rosy pink center, and came with gorgonzola cheese sauce. My only previous experience with any sort of cheese sauce was the sickening orange sludge served on ballpark nachos, but the sharp, tangy flavor of the sauce on this steak changed any preconceived notions I had. On the side were garlic fries that weren’t overly salty and crunchy asparagus, both delicious.

After visiting Plate 38, my opinion on gastropubs has changed. I no longer see them as establishments trying to bite off more than they can chew. I now know that a gastropub can create a fine dining experience, without abandoning the comfortable food that many Americans know and love. For anyone in the San Gabriel Valley, I would recommend going to Plate 38 to get a new take on American food.

California · Los Angeles

Guelaguetza

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3014 W Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90006. Phone: 213.427.0608

Worth visiting in a 1 mile radius.

Guelaguetza has garnered quite a reputation since it opened in 1994. The popular Oaxacan restaurant in Koreatown, L.A. has appeared on LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold’s annual Best 101 Restaurants list, has won a James Beard Foundation Award for American Classics, and has earned positive reviews from many different food critics. With a resumé this impressive, I had to give Guelaguetza a try.

One thing everyone who considers going to Guelaguetza should know is that the restaurant is quite loud. The combination of overwhelming live (not that great) music, dozens of diners chattering, and the open kitchen creates an atmosphere so noisy that you have to shout to talk to the person sitting next to you. The patronage is mostly big parties of Mexican families with some foodies mixed in.

Guelaguetza is known for its mole sauce and micheladas, which are a type of drink made from beer, lime juice, and chili peppers. The menu at Guelaguetza is not your typical Mexican fare. As I scanned the menu searching for the usual tacos, burritos, and enchiladas, I passed over many items I’d never heard of before. Tasajo? Nopales Asados? Campechana? This was going to be my one opportunity to eat Mexican food in Los Angeles before going back to New England with its, shall I say, limited options of Mexican food, so I took the opportunity and ordered all out.

Our meal started with a lagniappe of tortilla chips and mole sauce with cheese sprinkled on top. Chips are usually a good indicator of the quality of a Mexican restaurant and I was very impressed. They were piping hot and fresh, and the mole sauce, though spicy, still retained the rich chocolaty flavor. I liked it better than the usual salsa that comes with chips at most Mexican restaurants.

There’s a corner of the large dining room at Guelaguetza where you can see the cooks grilling the meat. Our alambres entreé was fresh off the grill, a mixture of grilled beef, bell peppers, onions, cheese, salsa, and guacamole in between corn tortillas. This dish tasted good, and the accompanying tortillas were soft and full of buttery flavor, but it was not very interesting. In fact, it tasted rather like a beef taco in a different form.

The tlayuda is a sort of Oaxacan pizza covered in pork fat and beans, topped with lettuce, chorizo, and Oaxaca cheese. While alambres seemed a little too ordinary to me, the tlayuda was very unusual. I can’t say I liked it, though it was an interesting dish to try. The chorizo topping was odd because it tasted more like a spicy ground meatball than the sausage links that chorizo usually are. The spread on the tortilla crust was fatty and starchy and tasted like burnt lard. The tortilla was very thin and baked to a crisp so it tasted more like a water cracker, while the mixture of lettuce and cheese sprinkled on was bland and did nothing to help the dish. This dish was a major disappointment.

The seafood cocktail was good but not great. I liked the tomatoes, shrimp, octopus, and avocadoes on top of the complimentary saltines, but the seafood wasn’t very fresh. The signature dish, chicken with mole negro, was clearly authentic, as it included the wing of the chicken rather than just the breast. This is something you can’t find in most Mexican restaurants in America. I thought the chicken was cooked just right and the mole sauce added the same great spicy-chocolaty flavor that worked well with the chips. Carnitas did not come in taco form as I expected, but were served with a side of guacamole and a small salad. Although simple, this entree was one of the best, because pork and guacamole are a combination for the ages, especially when the pork is juicy and tender like it was here.

I would recommend Guelaguetza to try once, especially if you’re not very familiar with Mexican food because of the interesting array of dishes on the menu. However, I wouldn’t come back. Although most dishes were fine and service was cheerful, some dishes missed the mark, and the noisy atmosphere put a damper on my meal. Keep in mind that L.A.’s Koreatown has the highest concentration of restaurants in the country, so there are many other restaurant options in this diverse neighborhood.

California · Los Angeles

Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong

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5700 Rosemead Blvd. #100 Temple City, CA 91780 Phone: 626.285.9678. United States locations elsewhere in Los Angeles, New York, and New Jersey.

Worth visiting in a 7 mile radius.

Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, also known as Baekjeong, is named after the owner, a Korean comedian and wrestler who owns an international chain of Korean BBQ restaurants. The location in Temple City, a suburb of Los Angeles, is plastered with cardboard cutouts of Kang Ho Dong and has walls filled with colorful cartoon pictures of him visiting all the places where he owns a restaurant. It might seem a little gimmicky at first, but when I tasted the meat, I knew I’d made the right choice coming here.

Baekjeong is extremely popular. You should expect a wait, and they do not take reservations. On a Monday night, we waited about 20 minutes for our table. The whole operation  is loud and bustling, with K-pop blasting from the speakers and young waiters with gelled hair shouting out things to one another such as, “More banchan (side dishes) at 33!”

We arrived at our table and were greeted by the entire wait staff in Korean, “어서오세요! 백정 입니다!” which means “Welcome! This is Baekjeong!” As with most Korean restaurants, the table was already laid out with banchan, which included: kimchi, kimchijeon (kimchi pancake), purple radish, sweet potatoes, spicy sprout salad, lettuce salad, and steamed egg. I didn’t eat much banchan, but members of my family who had more banchan said it was excellent. This was a good sign because you can usually tell how good a Korean restaurant is from the quality of its banchan.

Along the grill in the center of our table there was also a non-Korean item, cheese corn, which made us a little wary. I must admit, I wasn’t brave enough to try the cheese corn. However, my meal was fine without it.

The short rib, grilled at our table, was not overly  marinated, as some Korean BBQ meats are. The beef was nicely marbled, tender but not too fatty. The spicy pork belly, prepared in the kitchen, was a little too sweet for my liking. It also wasn’t very spicy, but it tasted good with the kimchi.

Baekjeong makes a good family meal, since you order for the table. Its meals are packed with good meat and manage to turn Korean BBQ into a fun, new experience.

 

 

California · Los Angeles

Din Tai Fung

400 South Baldwin Avenue, Arcadia, CA, 91007 and also in: Orange County, Seattle, Santa Clara, Japan, South Korea, Singapore, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Australia, and Thailand. Phone (Arcadia): 626.574.7068

Worth visiting in a 60 mile radius.

While in Arcadia, a suburb of Los Angeles, my family had our sights set on another restaurant. Upon realizing it was closed, we drove around and found Din Tai Fung, not realizing it was an internationally acclaimed, world-famous Taiwanese dumpling house. We were hooked on our first visit and have been coming back for years.

Even getting into Din Tai Fung is an experience. We usually get there around half an hour before it opens, and there are still fifteen or so people ahead of us. If you go at high lunch time, you might be waiting for two hours. While you are waiting, you can look through the window and see the workers, dressed in white and wearing masks, making the dumplings in an orderly assembly line.

Now for a few of my favorites. Chicken soup here doesn’t mean a few scant pieces of chicken floating around in broth. Expect enormous pieces of chicken, clad in thick skin, in a warm, delicious broth. The fried rice is superb. Restaurant fried rice tends to be greasy, but not at Din Tai Fung. I recommend getting it with shrimp.

These dishes are enough to make one’s mouth water, but when I come here, I intentionally don’t gorge on them so I can make room for Xiao Long Bao, or literally, “small dragon dumplings.”  These round dumplings with a twist on top and filled with soup have stolen the hearts of many a patron. With each bite of Xiao Long Bao, there is an explosion of broth in your mouth, coupled with the succulent pork. There is only one small problem: you won’t want to eat the dumplings at your local Asian eatery anymore.

Din Tai Fung’s dishes may seem simple, but the quality will dazzle you if you are willing to sacrifice one or two hours for the wait.